Dopo 4293 Piedmont Ave./John St. Exceptional Italian cooking makes the usual prime-time dinner wait worthwhile. Soups can be interesting—perhaps a deep-flavored lentil with chanterelle mushrooms—and the thin-crust pizza is reliably tasty. The small, but ever-changing menu has offered crostone of pork, lasagna, and a memorable crab tortellini. For dessert, don’t pass up buttermilk panna cotta or a full-flavored sorbet (the plum is to-die for). Lunch is less crowded, and flavorsome panini such as roast beef with chicories and alioli or eggplant parmesan are available.