Bay Wolf CLOSED 3853 Piedmont Ave./40th St. One of the region’s very best restaurants, this veteran bistro has been around for more than 30 years now. Serving a Mediterranean-inspired menu and famous for its duck dishes and Caesar salad, it operates out of a simple but cozy remodeled Victorian house sporting paintings by internationally recognized local artists. The menu changes every 3 weeks, highlighting the food of a different region and making use of the season’s bounty. Starters might include a subtly spiced puréed cauliflower soup or a vibrantly colored citrus-beet salad. The sublime, silky, duck liver flan that is the kitchen’s signature dish is always available. Desserts are worth saving space for, but when little room remains, try a plate of sweets that hopefully will include a chocolate-covered, liqueur-soaked cherry and a tiny gingerbread angel. Brunch is served only once each year, on Mother’s Day.