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OAKLAND ●Restaurants

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  4293 Piedmont Ave./John St.  Exceptional Italian cooking makes the usual prime-time dinner wait worthwhile.  Soups can be interesting—perhaps a deep-flavored lentil with chanterelle mushrooms—and the thin-crust pizza is reliably tasty.  The small, but ever-changing menu has offered crostone of pork, lasagna, and a memorable crab tortellini.  For dessert, don’t pass up buttermilk panna cotta or a full-flavored sorbet (the plum is to-die for).  Lunch is less crowded, and flavorsome panini such as roast beef with chicories and alioli or eggplant parmesan are available. 

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