Cugini 1556 Solano Ave./Peralta St., in Albany. Co-owned by three brothers and a cousin (the restaurant’s name literally means "cousin" in Italian), this popular spot specializes in Sicilian dishes. The atmosphere is simple but pleasant. Outstanding choices include antipasto misto—a mix of cheese, olives, roasted garlic, pickled peppers, and both roasted and marinated veggies—and thin-crusted pepperoni pizza baked in a wood-burning oven. Salads include an insalata finocchio (mixed greens with plenty of shaved fennel plus a delicious dressing), and pastas and risotto are also available. Take-out and The Big Night DVD are a great way to go. The lunch menu consists of salads and sandwiches plus a few pizzas and pastas.